1. •1982, individual tour with driver and car, an old Ambassador. Rajasthan was not what he became in terms of tourism. There were fewer hotels, comfort was more spartan, the encounters were more authentic both in cities and in countryside. Jaisalmer was the meeting point for many backpackers, with a certain nostalgia the years 60/70.
   

In the countryside, most men wore traditional Rajputs dress and women saree. Most visits were free, in shops more reasonable prices.

Many "small" Maharaja selling collection items and antiques sometimes at very affordable price in order to obtain funds to maintain their palaces falling into ruins. It was the best time to visit Rajasthan: globalization and business tourism had not done too much damage.

1. •2003, for lack of time and fatigue, I went through a European tour operator for a conventional circuit, with all that that represents inconvenience both in originality than to group dynamics.
   

What has added a deplorable weather in Europe and India (fog) a tiring guide and organizational problems linked to TO. Despite all the magic and charm of India came over me again, asking me to come back again and again.

1. •2009 Individual circuit based on a program combining some classic steps (for pleasure) and non-traditional steps. If we manage to get out of the most famous tracks, without having to get lost in the desert, we can still meet a deeply authentic India.
   

There are small towns and villages where time seems to stand still. Although being in high season, there were relatively few tourists this year. This was due to Mumbai attacks that took place last November (2008).

1. •2013: see the travel book and review on Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sikkim. Three Rajasthanee steps between  Gujarat-Delhi and Sikkim to prepare for an upcoming trip.
   

2. •2016: Travel meticulously prepared using traveler's blogs and readings, with the aim to discover the deep countryside, authentic villages, interesting activities and personalities, things a little more original, less touristy. To which is added North India we do not know yet, and Kathmandu I have not had the opportunity to know in 1970.
   

3. • 2023: We wanted to see Punjab, Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand again, which we only flew over due to the incompetence of the 2016 driver with great apprehension regarding the new generation of Indian drivers, and the difficulty local agencies to agree to leave the highways. The preparation of the trip was made from websites, travel blogs and readings
   

4. • 2024: Our 2023 trip having been particularly unsatisfying and traumatic, we considered never traveling to India again. Before making a final decision we try one last experiment by focusing on Rajasthan which we particularly like, this time by devoting ourselves entirely to rural life and meeting people from the countryside.
   

1. •1982, Air India, because it was the reference company to go to India at reasonable prices. At the time the company enjoyed a good reputation. His service on board was remarkable. Air France with prohibitive tariffs was for elite.
   

2. •2003 Lufthensa, via Munich: 12 hours late for taking off because of the snow and fog. Passengers began a revolt in the airport that seems to have worked in favor of an imminent departure. This delay had an impact on the program, making us lose 12 hours visits. Delay of 3 hours on return flight without explanation, without information. No excuses, no support, no snack while waiting.
   

3. •2009 Swiss Airlines for its service and attractive prices: the round trip from Province Delhi via Zurich and Delhi Zurich. 480 € per pax. Reliable, cheap, perfect.
   

4. •2016 Swiss airline company for its quality service and attractive rates. Jet Airways for 3 domestic flights. Aircraft piloted by "bus drivers":
   

three especially hard landings, delay, and arrogant crew.

1. • 2023 Emirates airline for its reputation and quality service. The advantage being that it leaves directly from our city with a stopover in Dubai. Problem at the time of the connecting flight for Delhi, an engine is broken down at the time of takeoff. Attempt to repair, return to the boarding lounge for a new flight more than 06:00 late. According to international law, this gives the right to significant compensation which has been granted by the company.
   

2. • 2024: Qatar Airways, because it is currently the cheapest, is also the one with the shortest stopover times. Our last two trips with Emirates were marked by engine failures and significant delays
   

1. • 1982, I booked a car and driver through a French tour operator Jet Evasion which did not stay a long time and that is unfortunate. Its prices were low, its destinations interesting, the formula of "tourism a la carte" original, its local correspondents were effective, present at each major step to ensure that all was well. Local T.O was Krishna World Travel to Delhi and Jaipur Aravali Safari Tours.
   

2. • 2003, ASIA the only T.O. which still had place available (all other display full on Rajasthan): A classic basic circuit: Dream of Maharajas + Ganges extension. Bus of 20 people, with a vehicle dating from the colonial period, no suspension, no heating or air conditioning. As heating the driver opening the engine hood in the passenger compartment which distilled fuel vapor to give migraine.
   

Because of fog the flight Kajuraho to Benares was canceled and replaced by the same journey by bus: 12 hours instead of one hour, another day tour lost. Without compensation or apology from the TO. We were surprised to know that other French tourist groups took the flight we had to take the same day!

1. • 2009 a renowned local tourism agency, for booking hotels, rental car and driver: Atithi Travel: email rajeev@atithivoyages.com website http://atithivoyages.com/
   

Very competent and efficient people, attractive rates. The vehicles were TATA Indigo, air-conditioned, comfortable. 800 € per pax including circuit and hotels

Price can be lowered by changing the hotel category, that we recommend for some of them.

Employing drivers subcontracted, we are not angry against Athiti because of the troubles encountered with the first driver. They react quickly enough when we have called for help.

1. • 2013: see travek book and reviews about Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sikkim. Atithi Travel and their corresponding on-site in Gujarat (not very effective).
   

2. • 2016 a local agency to refine the program, booking hotels, rental car and driver: Shivalik Holidays http://www.indevoyagerajasthan.com 
   

Contacts are very professional and reactive with Arvind who is involved in his agency. Low rates. Good advice for quality and affordable hotels. Good advice to support the project.

Many local agencies are booking offices that pass by independent drivers to transport tourists. They have few drivers they know well, but if they need additional drivers, they must recognize that they do not really know each other, although they vouch for.

1. • 2023: I contacted two agencies Tour India With Driver because its website is very attractive (lots of explanations, lots of details) and Drivers India because often quoted by Tripdvisor. I presented the same program to these two agencies for quotation. Drivers India was cheaper than Tour India With Driver, but when I wanted to modify a stage, without modifying the number of days or the number of kilometers, Drivers India increased its estimate without this being justified. Like many expat-run agencies around the world, there is an attractive call out quote, but as you adjust, the quote goes up, never able to come down. I decided to continue with Tour India With Driver, https://www.tourindiawithdriver.com/fr/TourIndia.asp
   

It is a good agency in terms of logistics. It has the most complete and detailed website: numerous destinations and stops with explanations that will make you want to be there. The contact and responsiveness are impressively professional.

Loverpreet seems to have thought of everything: mineral water during the circuit, nomadic wifi for passengers, offer of interesting hotels, provision of cash when the banks are closed for public holidays (which often happens). Unlike competitors, it does not change the price each time you change elements of the program before leaving. Tour India With Driver is slightly more expensive than the competition, but ultimately the quote is lower. Loverpreet listens to her customers, but she is dependent on the drivers she chooses. In our case it was a disaster. We waited too long to report the problems, but as soon as we did she reacted quickly and sent another driver. This agency is interesting provided that it surrounds itself with drivers who match its professionalism and qualities.

1. • 2024, wishing for a long time to have an in-depth experience of the rural world, we contacted 4 agencies, with a program which wanted to avoid highways and large cities. An agency asked us to fly from Delhi to join them in Jaipur ! An agency provided us with a driver, specifying that it was not a guide and that it did not take care of hotel reservations in the places we wanted to go. Drivers India was overpriced while not being able to guarantee a driver who was familiar with the places we wanted to go.
   

Incredible Rural India is the only agency in all our trips to India that has sincerely listened to our wishes. Raj Sharma is the only person who seems to have understood from the beginning what we were looking for. This was felt in our discussions which deepened and refined each time a little more, to make our project even more attractive, with a completely affordable price. The accommodation options were remarkable, especially as it provided half-board, which in rural areas is a necessity.

There remained the question of the driver. Raj promised us an exceptional driver capable of guiding us in our discovery. Afraid of being disappointed again, we limited our stay to 12 days. The driver was more than exceptional. He helped us make one of the most beautiful trips of our lives. We regret that we only took 12 days. Provision of bottles of water in the car, not just two, but each time we finished one...provision of an original pouch with the travel documents and a sum of money that we had asked him to change for us. Provision of a tray filled with dried fruits, sweets, biscuits, tissues, wipes, disinfectant gel, and mobile wifi if necessary. Never seen. A refinement that goes beyond business tourism. People who only think about money don't do all this.

We do not expect drivers are scholars guides able to make us discovering region deeply with its peculiarities. We expect they know the itinerary of the program sold by the agency (the itineraries errors are losing a lot of time). As they are tourist drivers we expect that with the experience they are able to memorize sites and interesting places to visit to share with their new customers.

A current trend among taxi drivers in India is to purchase a car in leasing and a tourism license to work subcontracted with local agencies.

1. • 1982: Rameshwar (exceptional) an old Hindu and extraordinary driver. He did not speak a word of English, but understood everything we said. He quickly understood what interested us and did everything possible to make us discover Rajasthan in unimaginable ways. I will never forget that person who was one of the best drivers / guides found in the world.
   

2. • 2003 a scholar Indian guide speaking perfect French: Songer De Malasaya. (mediocre) no photo
   

3. •He really ruined the trip by transforming each visit in fine arts seminar. He was boring and was wasting valuable time: a visit that would last 2h lasted at least 4 hours. It was more painful than this guide avoided contact with the population, with the street: we could not visit the markets, small neighborhoods, popular places, neither stop in the country etc ... His arguments were it was not interesting, and it was dangerous. We had the impression of being taken hostage, forcing us escape to the meet what we wanted. No picture
   

1. • 2009 a first driver Jai Chand Sharma. (mediocre) Arrogant, with a bloated ego, he was not interested in anything concerning his country and had only two goals, take us to shops to earn commissions and arrive as quickly as possible to the hotel to rest.
   

The new driver: Krishan from the Four wheel drive agency in Jaipur (excellent), very clever, although he did not speak English, he quickly understood what we were looking for, he took it very seriously to show us as many things as possible, on the short distance we had left to do together. We realize what we have lost because of not having such a attentive driver than him from the start, we regret not having acted earlier. It is among the best driver-guides we met in India and around the world.

1. • 2013: see travel book and reviews about Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sikkim: a calamity for the 4 drivers (all mediocre) that will lead us to want to change agency in a future trip.

   

   
   

2. • 2016: Rajesh Tiwari (average - mediocre) good taxi driver who drove relatively well. For someone who says often accompany tourists, he often asked the road, and in North India often made trips errors. Outside a Jain temple in Bikaner, he brought nothing special to the program. Instead all we had original in our program, he did not know, did not seem to interest him. With a bloated ego, he is gruff ("I know better than you because it is my country"),very shortmind. He made us slyly pay for his meals several times. His lack of honesty and attention became unbearable. Contrary to what has been said, we do not think he works for this agency a long time.
   

3. • 2023: One more bad driver:  Rajeev Joshi (the worst). He was careful, but neither more nor less than anyone. On the other hand, it rolled

   

   in all the potholes and on all the stones encountered on the road. Which the second driver didn't do, avoiding them because it was his own car, not the agency's.
   

He was frequently late, although never starting before 09:00. he stops on the way to have his breakfast, which he should have eaten before starting work. He didn't know the routes, the regions, or the sites we visited. He frequently got lost, which caused us to waste a lot of time. He didn't know how to use his GPS or rather he thought he knew better than the GPS. Incompetent and inefficient.

1. • Panjab Singh: (good/average) speaking little English, he used the translator on his phone to communicate when things got difficult. he knew how to use his GPS and didn't waste any time. He quickly found the destinations we wanted to reach. He never made us pay for his drinks or meals, and when he dropped us off somewhere, he was waiting for us where he dropped us off. He is caring and respectful. Originally from Punjab, he knows his region. With a little more tourist knowledge/experience and self-confidence, Panjab could be a very good driver. We recommend him.
   

2. • 2024 Mr Girendra Singh alias Girver from the Incedible Rural India agency. An exceptional driver. Probably the best driver

   

   we have met in the world. A very classy, neat and careful driver guide. Attentive and warm. He loves his work and likes to share his region if given the opportunity.
   

Girver knows Rajasthan, where he comes from, well. He never took the wrong route, he very rarely took the highways. The small stony roads never scared him. Unlike the drivers we met in India, he never refused to stop in the villages, on the contrary he tried to show us the villages.

In addition to being a driver, he is a valuable guide who helps you discover and understand everything you see. He encourages meetings and serves as an intermediary whenever he can to facilitate communication. Thanks to him, we fulfilled our wish to discover Rajasthan in depth. HE was very attentive throughout the journey to anything that might be of interest to us, often anticipating stops before we asked. He showed us lots of villages. He stops us at small local restaurants and gives the necessary instructions so that the dishes are adapted to our palates. He seeks to help us discover simple things characteristic of the region. He watches over our safety. He's a fabulous man.

After having used guesthouses and station waiting rooms, today we choose to stay in small charming hotels, run by small owners or families.

Hotels which make an effort to decorate and welcome, and which do not welcome groups when possible...

None have been disappointing, apart from the Laxmi Niwas in Bikaner. Too pompous for very limited comfort and buffet meals bordering on acceptable.

In general there are three categories of rooms: standard, deluxe and suites. We didn't try the suites except at Bassi Fort, because they were very affordable. Sometimes there is not much difference in price between standard and deluxe.

Small Indian hotels have made great efforts in layout and maintenance. They understood that carpet is not ideal in a humid country. All hotels have tile or marble floors.

It is rare to have a shortage of hot water, a power outage or various critters running everywhere. Having known the three categories of Hotels in India (Guesthouse, Charming Hotel and International Hotel) small hotels are more pleasant to live in than large international hotels with staff as cold as the marble entrance hall. Many small hotels and forts now have their own organic vegetable gardens. Bhanwar Palace in Karauli even has its own chicken coop and dairy. Small hotels are often of better quality and the service is often warmer. For a rate of 3000 to 6000 rupees per double room with breakfast.

1. In Rajasthan and North India we especially like :
   

1. • Stroll through the streets of Nawalghar, Mandawa, Fathepur, Churu, Ghanerao among the havelis. All these ruins speak of their history, stimulating the imagination about the lives their inhabitants led at the time. Between refinement and debauchery. Paradoxical contrast between the opulence of merchants and the poverty of the common people
   

2. • Walk for hours through the streets and markets of villages and forts to explore all these small businesses that are the hidden strength of India, a parallel economy Gandhian type: all the small shops of vegetables and fruits and other food trades: confectioners, millers, pani poori abd namkeen bhujia sellers (walla), chai masala walla, all the artisans who produce with an impressive expertise everything that is necessary for everyday life: tools accessories for farms and kitchen, in metal or wood, ropes made of vegetable fibers to bags of all sizes, the cloth merchants and tailors that are able to realize any garment in record time. Jewelers who make a lot of female ornaments made of gold or silver and alloys for some and plastic for others. All appliances repairers, televisions, computers, motorcycles, tractors .Shoemakers who make and repair all types of shoes and sandals. The pharmacist selling drugs by unit and herbal treatments called ayurveda. All these small businesses that sustain millions of people out of globalization.
   

3. • Meet Bishnoi (Vishnoi): an unforgettable experience, off the beaten path ...with a genuine contact guaranteed far from folk dances or opium ceremonies or mercantile approach for tourists ...I have never seen so many octogenarian in my life outside of Crete. The afternoon passed next to an old weaver who told me the important moments of his life, with a lucidity, a warmth, a philosophy, to make me want to stay ...
   

The new Bishnoi Jeep safaris currently sold are a horror compared to what we experienced in 2009.

1. • Attend evening prayers at Jagdish Temple of Udaipur, without camera. Sit among the people in the center of the temple and let do without voyeurism ...after a while it happens something ...a kind of harmony...without shoving our beliefs. Someone sharing a puja gift with us, and the evening continues as if we were part of the neighborhood for a long time...a word that is much hackneyed: communion...that impression to be with, to belong, to tell everything without a word.. to the point of becoming palpable...it is possible without looking like an illuminated or babacool seeking mystical experience...just a bath of life, real ...sharing a fervor...
   

2. • Getting lost in the lanes of Bassi and Bundi, Roopangarh, before the new generation becomes arrogant, Pipar City, Suroth, Jojawar, Dhariyawad, Chandelao while the kids are at school. Far from the tourist excitement of big cities... tour the villages discovering the inhabitants who are active, the old people who are relaxing, sharing a hello, a smile, a slice of life... stopping and observe, sit with people, exchange. Being invited to a wedding that lasts a whole night, with a riot of colors, smells, music... I thank Colonel Randheer Singh and his wife Mrs.Mahendra Kanwar for their welcome and their invitation to this fabulous wedding which will leave an unforgettable memory.
   

3. • Jaisalmer, peaceful, magical, full of things to see and experience, captivates literally (see the film Nanhe Jaisalmer.) The fort and the old town exude a very special atmosphere ... it feels really at peace. No wonder that even one meets there many Hippies.
   

4. • Explore the small country roads from Sadri to Desuri, heading towards Kelwari. From Mandawa to Churu, from Mahwa to Suroth. From Bikaner to Chandelao, from Chandelao to Pushkar, from Khandela to Roopangarh, from Jodhpur to Ghanerao, from Ghanerao to Dhariyawad. These roads full of villages and rural scenes like we dream of encountering. Old wheel wells with pots (which have disappeared), oases, wheat fields, nomads who move around with their donkeys and their goats, their camels.
   

5. • Take a sweet massala chai, in the evening on the terrace of the Jaiwana hotel in Udaipur for the pleasure of seeing the lake and the city light up with thousands of stars, and let us overwhelmed by the nigh ...
   

6. • Take the boat early in the morning on the lake Pitchola to be alone to slip to the surface of the water between the reflections of the palace. The sky is blue and the reflections from golden beige ocher walls worth the sunset
   

7. • Visiting the Taj Mahal early morning (at the opening), to have it for oneself with a soothing and magic light that surrounds this sanctuary, an ecstasy ... Sit at least an hour without moving to be invaded ...
   

8. • Discover the golden temple of Amritsar which can rival the Taj Mahal. Get lost in the streets of Amristar. Discover the mentality and philosophy of the Sikhs which are so different from what we encounter in India. The warmth of the welcome, the solidarity, the friendliness of the Sikhs are to be discovered, and unlike the rest of India, everything is free.
   

9. • The aarti of Haridwar, much less showbiz than that of Vanarasi, is one of the most beautiful ceremonies that we have seen during an ardh kumba mela or better during a kumba mela.
   

10. • The particularly peaceful atmosphere of Dharamsala (McleodGanj) and the small Himalayan valleys before 2016. It is much less so since, thanks to the highways, the region has become the "trendy" resort of the wealthy youth of Delhi who come to stay there let off steam on the weekend.
    

11. • The faith, the courage, the tenacity of the pilgrims who make the Kaila Devi walk, much more impressive and respectable than certain crisis of hysteria in the temples.
    

12. •
    

13. In Rajasthan and North India we do not like:
    

The youngest are disguised to look like the stars of the latest violent films made in Bollywood: jeans, nike shoes, tee shirt, fake ray ban, fake leather jacket without sleeves, bandanas in the hears, ear jewelery etc ... older wear ordinary trousers, polo shirts fashionable, a 3-day beard, golden necklaces, braceletsrings, rings, a toilet brush style haircut...

We have never been bothered by women, by older men, by people who wear traditional clothes, by Muslims (who bear the signs), by Sikhs.

- Gurus: having been in fashion in India in the 70s, today the gurus proliferate both in the West and in Asia and South East Asia. Some known as Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, Satia Said Baba, Oto Rajneesh, Gurumayi Chidvilasananda etc ... with thousands of followers.

To have observed a lot and doing some experiments, for me a guru is a light point on the path on condition he(she) never take or pretend himself (herself) to be the light or the way !

If it stimulates, promotes or accept any form of dependence from followers, he loses its credibility. If he accepts or requires donations in kind, in money or sex from his followers, if he claims to have supernatural powers, he is an impostor.

As for meditation, it is practiced where we are by a mindfulness to what is now, sometimes with temporary assistance, without having to disguise oneself, without having to be enclosed in an ashram, avoiding to be captivated by his(her)navel or the aura of a "master"! Contrary to what one imagines, is not a withdrawal from the world, but a way of being in the world.

- Price discrimination practice of charging (in India, Sri Lanka, Nepal) entrance fees of sites, museums, exhibitions, some hotels and restaurants, 10 times more expensive to foreigners, and 10 times cheaper for residents of SAARC countries (much of southeast Asia).

I accept the idea of sharing wealth by fair and solidarity tourism. Still need to know who benefits from the redistribution! Employee salaries and the little people have not increased!

I fully support the idea that the local people have equitable access or even free to its heritage, but:

1- Among the local and SAARC visitors there are not only poor Asians and Indians (for whom it should be free). Many local visitors, thanks to the "emergence" , thanks to offshoring, thanks to globalization have greater income than our !

2- There are not only wealthy foreign tourists, some have saved money several years to afford the trip of a lifetime.

I'll be curious to see the reaction of "Indian middle class" or SAARC coming to visit the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre or the French vineyards to which we require an entrance fee 10 times higher than that charged for French under the pretext that if they took the plane to come in France is that they can afford. Lonely Planet agrees.

I would be interested to see the reaction of the foreign tourists who are require an entrance fee to visit the old town of Nice, or Montmartre, or Eguisheim in Alsace, Conques in Aveyron, or to visit the villages of Procence,  under pretext that these are sites to be preserved!

1. To go beyond the basic tourism:
   

When I visit the palaces and forts of Rajasthan, or when I heard about the British colonization, it makes me smile and revolt me:

Indians were colonized, invaded and exploited by other invaders much earlier, longer and more cruelly, before, during and after the English. The story has a short memory, to the point of assimilating invaders in heritage!

When I think of the descendants of these"royal" families  who now manage Forts transformed into luxury hotels, I wonder if they are aware of the many "bastards" that their ancestors have engendered in their harems and zenanas, half-brothers and half-sisters who have never had access to this slice of cake, when they were allowed to live !

More I visit Rajasthan and India in depth, the more I think about the millions of men and women who built these forts, palaces, havelis by allegiance or force. Just like our European peasants in the pre-feudal, feudal era and at the time of the kings of France. Everyone marvels at the Palace of Versaille, but who spares a thought for the conditions in which the people lived at the time...

I think about holders who brought the materials, which often came from far away, sometimes to the top of rocky peaks, and those who have fashioned them.

I think about those who carved, sculpted, painted all these glitzy decorations. About those who have woven draperies, brocades, carpets, curtains.

I thhink about those who have manufactured the furniture, the doors, the frameworks, the buttons of drawers.

I think about all the peasants who cultivated the land and raised the cattle to feed these "princely" families and the many aristocrats who were courting them, I think about all those who fought and died to defend the palace, these lands (which never belong to them) against other invaders, others "princes" and jealous rivals.

I think about those millions of people who have realized all this without ever being paid other than food, just to survive. Knowing that at the time India was much less populated than it is today, which means that the majority of Indian people were enslaved and exploited by these "princes and rich merchants", many of whom came from elsewhere . India seems to have been and to be subscribed to feudalism for a long time.

If all of this exists is thanks to them, without them the maharajas would perhaps not even exist.

The story has a short memory, I regret that India often forget the little people who hides behind this "royal" heritage that attracts so many tourists.

I wonder if local "emerging" touristsand foreigners realize that the glitzy side of India,  it is primarily thanks to the lower classe, and his expertise. All these masterpieces were made by artisans who are not even really recognized as artists, or even recognized simply as being at the origin of what we are given to admire.

Then the British...!

1- The route: steps are between 100 km and 300 km per day with an average of 200 km that we went through in 5 hours.

We ask to leave at 08h00: this give us more time to visit and stop where we want unless weare on Highway. The best moments (light and color) for the pictures being from 8:30 to 10:30 and from 15:30 to 17:30.

The roads are generally in good condition except from Bassi to Bundi, but landscapes and country scenes crossed worthwhile.

India has set up a lot of motorway (highways) with 4 or 6 tracks with tolls. Rajasthan account some between major cities, which fluidifies well the traffic and allows to move rather quickly.

We can still be surprised by the presence of a herd of camels or sheep, or a vehicle traveling against the direction on these highways. Otherwise it would not be India. Often the time saved on the highways is lost in the traffic jam on entering cities.

2 - To optimize or customize a project :  most basic itinerary are the inevitable: Delhi - Mandawa - Bikaner - Jaisalmer - Ranakpur - Jodhpur - Udaipur - Pushkar - Jaipur - Agra.

it is interesting to leave the highway, on which are traveling faster but because of whom you spend hours in trafic jam when going in and out of big cities. Furthermore the trucks on the highway are not on secondary roads, freeing them from the mass of traffic.

Many country roads are in very good condition. More and more agencies and drivers are reluctant to borrow and that's unfortunate. It is important to find drivers who still accept to roam the countryside. There are villages and small towns to discover extraordinary away from the highways.

We could choose Churu as a base to visit the Shekhawati (Mandawa, Nawalgarh-Fathepur) Going from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur we could visit Osiyan.

When visiting Jodhpur wecould stay in Chandelao or Mandore (Jodhpur) if we want to visit real Bishnoi villages, or the charming town of Pipar City.

If going to Pushkar and Jaipur, we can take a break in the charming fortified village of Roopangarh and discover all the small trades that make the charm of India.

When going from Jodhpur to Udaipur wecould stay in Narlai which has much more charm than Deogarh, we could go down to Mount Abu and its region, we could continue until Danta and Poshina which are beautiful villages little tourist in Gujarat, with lot of interesting things to discover, 69 km from Mount Abu and Udaipur 167 km. When we go from Udaipur to Jaipur we could get a step in Bassi and another in Bundi rather than Chittogarh, nice authentic villages. Going back to Delhi or Agra from Bundi, we could go through Karauli or Suroth and Alawar or Deeg instead of Ranthambhore where there is little chance of seeing a tiger. The forts and scenery are beautiful. If we go from Jaipur to Agra, we can make a detour by the magnificent wells of Abhaneri.

From Agra If we have a little time we can go down to Orccha and Khajuraho. One can take a flight to Delhi with stop over in Vanarasi. (129 euros / pax for Kajuraho - Vanarasi - Delhi). visit the old town and Gaths Benares, visit Sarnath Buddhist holy city very interesting.

In north India after Haridwar rather than going to Rishikesh we could go to Mussorie and up to Dharamsala through Shimla. Otherwise it is interesting to spend time in Derhradun and its surroundings (Clement Town, Paonta Sahib, Bhangani) In Dharamsala we could take the time to visit the Tibetans villages around and different buddhist monastery We  could spend time exploring the countryside of Punjab.

3 - There are places and activities less touristy than yoga and meditation but more authentic to discover India where you can stay, help, learn, share as the Barefoot College of Tilonia, fighting against poverty and aims to equip villages drinking water and renewable energy. The NGO held by Mandore Guesthouse (Jodhpur)where we can help Bishnoi villages based on our competencies, The Bal Ashram of Viratnagar, a center that welcome and educate slaves children collected in all the country (currently 5000). The Nagaur veterinary hospital that treats cows and other animals with almost more respect than humans in many hospitals, the farm and the Association Navdanya of Vandana Shiva, Ramgarh / Shishambara Old Road Shimla Derhradun for a return to agricultural independence, the Tibetan Children Village of Dharamsala for its commitment to the protection of Tibetan identity.

In Dharamsala, it is possible to consult a monk doctor in Tibetant medicine as  Men Tse Khang Branc Clinic - Tipa road (9h-13h / 14h-17h) closed 2 and 4 Sat of month of Tibetan medicine clinic or Dr. Lobsang Khangar Memorial Clinic near the post office 9h-12h 14h-17h Mon-Sat medicine clinic or Tibetan Dr Yeshi Dhonden former physician of the Dalai Lama 8h-13h take a token at 8 am for starting order.

4 - Each trip we discover traditional Indian sports, different from football, cricket or hockey. Wrestling seems to be part of the Indian heritage significantly. The guides never speak about. We met kabaddi in Tamil Nadu, kalarippayat in Karnataka and today kushti in Rajasthan. For the last two, there is a spiritual dimension that is only found in Asia..

5 - lunches in small restaurants on roads or crossings in cities and in the evening in the hotel where we were staying. We take no meat, no fish or seafood. This petmet avoid Tourista to 99%! Beware the freshness of lassis and yoghurt.

India has a highly developed vegetarian cuisine, and full of flavor, it is possible to have meals without chili except for restaurants for truck drivers.

There is an endless variety of dishes with local, regional, national.

Our preference is for Vegetarian Thali. Meals ranged from 170-450 rupees (2.70 at 6 euros per person drink included).

Except for Laxmi Niwas in Bikaner and Rawla Jojawar in which insipid buffets at 1300 rupees (21 euros per person), most hotels offer plentiful and sometimes very original buffets between 500 and 600 rupees.

When tired of rice & curry, there are vegetables noodles which are large and offer different flavors. In some cities there are even Mc Donald and Pizza Hut.

We buy water in village shops for 20 rupees (0.16/0.18 euros) per one and a half liter bottle. In restaurants, water costs between 50 and 100 rupees for a one-liter bottle. It is important to ensure that the caps have not been glued back on or tampered with.

Most hotels graciously put half a bottle of water per person provided in the rooms.

Breakfasts are international and Indian ... often with extraordinary buffets.

Security: We share meals, snacks, drinks, offered by native encountered in temples, in the streets or villages, after taking time to get to know, and only when it is a family.

We never accept drinks and food or invitations from single or men groups. (Routard and Lonely Planet give the same warnings)

6 - Various

1. • We never buy stones and precious metals in Asia. There is too much traffic, even in known shops !!!!
   

For fabrics, we never buy in the tourist shops in large cities. It's beautiful, expensive and not always in good taste. We will go where the Indians.

For cotton we buy in the markets or in shops where do the Indians. Street tailors are very good and cheap ...

1. • The beautiful carpets in cotton and / or camel hair, with geometric designs woven by the Bishnoi are called Dhurries ... the ideal being to buy the Bishnoi villages themselves, to avoid the commissions sometimes exorbitant intermediate ...
   

2. • True pashmina (wool neck after a high specific goat in the Himalayas) are very rare and very expensive, the majority of items that are offered to tourists are fake or mixed ... but still expensive enough that we believe it ... fake certificates in support.
   

3. • Never ask in the street where you can find a particular article: there is always someone who listens and will be happy to take you where you do not want to go, the invoice will be increased by all the ... commission requires ...
   

Beware of false sandalwood, it is often artificially flavored ordinary wood sandalwood. (Artificial flavor) ....

1. • In Jaipur there are miniature schools (typical beautiful paintings) sometimes with slightly different styles ... a lot of copies, little new ... prices go up with the development of tourism ... it gets out of price
   

2. • In Kathmandu, objects, statues, mandalas are overpriced. We find them cheaper in specialty stores in Europe.
   

As for antiques, you must know that this is never true antiques, if ithey were, you risk big problems by exporting them.

1. • Finally, a phrase that opens many doors: Me aap ka picture ley sakta hu ? or Photo  Kich sakté hai: Can I take a picture ?
   

it ends 99/100 with a smile, a head swinging from left to right to open you the right to image, enjoying the respect you have shown.

Few tourists ask people if they agree to be photographed ... rarer those who propose to send a copy of the photos ... shame.

Happiness is not a destination, it is a way of life.